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Sherlock Coat- Construction

Hello all! This is a long post so that’s why it took me a while to write. I apologize about the way.

So far this coat is fighting me tooth and nail. The shell houndstooth fabric is a lot stretcher than I originally though, as well as the sheer WEIGHT of jacket alone is difficult. So far it’s 12 pounds!! Holy cow!

I’ve done a lot to it since I cut the pattern. But here we go.

By the way, I’d like to start out with saying that I am following the Tailoring book that I ordered however I find myself ad libbing a lot as I go. I in no way think this is the correct or only way to go about this, so please do not take my word as truth.

Sherlock Coat Coat plackets

I cut the back plackets shown here. Nothing too special I’d just like to remind everyone to cut their corners 🙂

Sherlock Coat Cut corners

Alrighty, onto some other stuff. In the Tailoring book, it wants you to interface your jacket fronts with a non-woven interfacing. So I purchased some and laid it out and ironed them on.

Sherlock Coat interfacing front

However, when you do this, make sure to take heed to the roll line. The Tailoring Book suggests that you cut a narrow strip out so that it’s easy to find it later. Like so.

Sherlock Coat roll line

Further more, the book also recommends to take a damp cloth to lightly damp the roll line. I did so here, but I think I will also mark this with some pins for later.

Sherlock Coat Steam roll line

Also, I’d like to point out that I was having troubles with the back lapel. The insert piece in the back just wasn’t sitting properly. Also it was bugging me so I had to fix it. I’m guessing it wasn’t being stabilized enough so I tried a few methods.

Sherlock coat back problem

See how it’s puckering out? Yeah that’s not ok. Needed to teach that placket a lesson!

I tried a few different methods, and the only thing I could think of was stabilizing it as much as possible, then tacking it down from the inside. In the long run, I liked the effect. Still not 100% happy with it, but this is a learning experience 🙂

Sherlock Coat fixing back problem 2

I pinned on where I wanted the placket to meet up from the outside layer.

Sherlock Coat fixing back problem

Then from the inside I hand tacked it down.

After this part I wanted to make sure that it wasn’t going anywhere, so I added a bit of interfacing to make sure it stayed put.

Sherlock Coat interfacing back

Then soon after, came adding the skirt piece, this is how I did the box pleats. I know, very scientifical 😛

Sherlock coat pleats lower back

After a good 8 hours of sewing, I started to iron the pieces flat, when the iron started to melt my coat!!

Sherlock coat iron problem

So, naturally, I took off that piece then recut it and sewed it back on. But still. SILLY IRON!!

Anyways, I’ll be posting the images of the fitting here soon. I haven’t done it yet, but I will! There is still a lot to do to this like pockets, more interfacing, button placement etc. Everything is going along to plan though. This will definitely be a dry clean only coat!

Thanks for reading!

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